Since I travel a lot, I often find myself in places where the water quality is barely adequate to say the least! Now when it comes to water, the wife and I are sorta squeamish about what we put into our bodies. If it “looks bad, smells bad or tastes funny, we don’t do it….period!” So, in order to obtain good quality drinking water, we mostly depend on store bought water. But we still need water in the RV to do the necessities of life; bathing, washing, cleaning and for toilet flushing.

Sediment Filter – Just because the water is not murky (or maybe it is), or you cannot visibly see anything floating around in it, this does not mean that there are no contaminates in the water. Even if murkiness is not your complaint, a sediment filter will protect your downstream equipment from premature failure by removing the gunk that could otherwise cause a problem. Not sure if you have priced a water heater lately, but they are not cheap! Sediment filters work by straining out the sediment and holding it. Therefore replacement of the cartridges is required once they become plugged.

Carbon Filter – Have you ever been to a place where the water either tasted funny or smelled bad? The contaminants that affect the taste and odor of water will go right through a sediment filter, so you’ll need to add something else to remove them. Carbon has an uncanny ability to grab onto the bad stuff in water, leaving the water very clean-tasting and odor-free. Just like sediment filters, carbon filters require replacement once they become clogged, however they will not plug up as quickly as sediment filters.

Combination Units – Rather than purchasing two sets of filters (sediment and carbon), combination filter elements are manufactured that remove sediment and make the water smell and taste good. They are compact and relatively inexpensive, and made of carbon-powder-impregnated paper. The downside of these units is that they have a limited carbon component, so the taste-and-odor improvement is much less than you would get from a dedicated carbon filter.

Biological Agents – Biological agents include protozoa, bacteria, viruses, and cysts and spores. The most prevalent are very small (2-4 microns in size). They can be removed with a ultrafine filter that has a rating of 0.9 microns. This removes all pathogenic microbes, however there are still viruses to consider, which are even smaller than can be filtered.

Total Purification – There are two methods that can produce virtually pure water and are suitable for use in RVs. One is distillation; however it is quite expensive to operate and produces a low volume of clean water. The other, and most recommended for RV owners, is Reverse Osmosis. I will cover reverse osmosis systems in a later blog.

OK, have I totally made you panic? My wife often starts itching and scratching about this time in our discussions….lol. So how do I filter out water so as not to contaminate my hot water heater and plug my system?? Well, for now, I use a double cartridge filter unit. The first cartridge is a sediment cartridge and the second is a carbon cartridge. Make sure you get the units that do not use the clear canisters, as they have a tendency to accumulate algae over time.

Like I said, I usually buy my drinking water, however I am about to install a reverse osmosis unit and when I do, rest assured I will share the installation, as well as the result, with you on my website.

Until then, happy RV’ing!

My name is Michael Trotter and I have been living in my RV practically full-time. I am a contract technical writer and my RV serves as my residence/office while away from home.

My business takes me to a lot of interesting and desolate places. Sometimes there is no adequate housing, so my RV suits me well. I just find the nearest RV park/campground and set up. Most places now have internet capabilities, so I can use my RV as an office as well.

I have learned a lot of things about RVing from my fellow enthusiasts, as well as out of necessity, about shortcuts and saving money while enjoying a most rewarding lifestyle.

Source

You will have to have to choose between a custom cover and a universal fit .If you’ve decided to keep your travel trailer, RV or toy hauler for a several years, you’ve made Otherwise, measure and get a universal cover.

Using the cover will reflect the infrared rays of the sun to keep the temperature inside lower than it would be if you allowed the unit to sit and bake. That means the interior of unit will last longer and avoid sun fade of the finish. Covers that are made of material that is breathable will protect your travel trailer, RV or toy box from the effects of rain and snow, while at the same time allowing moisture to escape, eliminating the build-up of mold and mildew. You don’t need extreme weather to realize the benefits of a cover. High winds, rain and blowing dust can all take their toll on your unit.

When buying a travel trailer RV cover.

A breathable and durable material is important. The cover should be properly contoured. Corners should be reinforced to avoid snagging and tearing. In addition, corners should be snug enough to provide a good fit, but loose enough to make sure it’s an easy on and off process. Seams and hems should be evenly seamed and adequate for heavy duty use. The travel trailer RV cover you invest in should have zipper entry doors. There’s nothing worse than getting your rig parked and winterized, then to cover it only to discover you’ve left your keys inside. Easy access means you’ll be able to go in and out easily.

How do you take care of travel trailer RV covers?

RV cover you buy should have its own storage bag. That way you keep the cover secure, safe and clean while you’re using your unit. But don’t put that cover away dirty or in need of repair. Before you put the cover into storage, drape the cover carefully over a clothes line, hose it off and let it dry. If you notice that you’ve gotten a snag or a rip in the cover, repair kits are available to make the required patches.

So for utmost security of your investment in a travel trailer RV cover. It will keep your rig looking new. Quite frankly, the greatest return on this investment is when you no longer have to clean bird droppings off before your first road trip of the year.

Source

The Vanagon Weekender models that were introduced in 1983 are rear-engine, rear-drive vans. The 1983-1991 models feature a 4 speed manual transmission or an automatic transmission with an electronic ignition, dynamic oil pressure system and a thermostatically controlled 2-speed electric radiator fan. Most of these Vanagon weekenders have power windows, rear-blowing air conditioning, electronic locks, cruise control, cassette stereo, rear wiper/washer and power mirrors. Seating 7, the Vanagon full camper has a forward-facing center bench that converts into a 3-person bed and 2 rear facing seats that may be removed to increase cargo space. It also has a pop up roof with 2-person bed, window curtains, an optional second deep-cycle marine battery, and much more. Choose from a 3-speed automatic or a manual transmission style. Most stick shifts came in 4-speed versions and VW added a 5-speed option in 1986. As most of the Vanagons are rear wheel drive choose a 4 wheel mode which was made from 1986 to 1991.

Volkswagen vanagon has 4 speed manual transmission, rear wheel drive, electronic ignition, oil pressure system, electronic fuel injection, rear-wheel drive, power steering and brakes, Fuel tank capacity, Chrome hub caps and LP gas and carbon monoxide detectors. Some of the safety features include three point belts for front seats; side impact beams in front doors and sliding side door, height adjustable head restraints for each passenger. Storage tanks have 15.9 gallon gasoline tanks.

Some of the camping facilities which full campers have are stainless steel sink, LP gas refrigerator, front seats, 110-volt access when plugged into campground power, room darkening, pleated curtains for side windows etc. The sleeping room has canvas side-walls with screened windows, pop-up roof raises to create up to 7′ of floor to ceiling room etc. Storage area with full campers is silverware drawer, 15 cu.ft of enclosed cabinet space etc. Vanagon camper floor plan include large storage space, air conditioner and additional storage, rear mattress, top loading storage chests, sink, stove, 3-way refrigerator, adjustable rear and front dinette table with swing arm and storage closet with hanger and mirror.

By free camping, as well as staying in campsites you can reduce your daily accommodation costs. Free camping is tolerated, and even encouraged, in some areas. If you find a beautiful and safe location free camping can be the best part of a trip. By stocking up at supermarkets, when you pass them, you can save a lot of money.

Source

Our family hates vacation side trips to find a local RV dealer for unexpected repairs. Wasting precious vacation time camping in the dealer parking lot is not our idea of exploring the scenic back roads! By scheduling repairs for early March, we give our dealer plenty of time to complete work before the “spring rush.” Most often the trailer is left winterized, in case of continued freezing temperatures. De-winterizing, the first weekend out, is a task we can easily accomplish on our own and it doesn’t take long to do. That first annual family camping trip is our spring road trip to test “our wheels.” Although on road “surprises” still occur occasionally, we are far more prepared to face them with humor, if we have done our fall homework. Sometimes on road “surprises” become our favorite travel tales. I’ve included our RV/Travel Trailer Maintenance Check List. Think Spring! Think spring camping road trip!

Spring Maintenance Check Lis for RV’s Travel Trailers, and Campers

1. Pack Wheel Bearings/Inspect Brakes
2. Inspect Safety Chains
3. Inspect Brake Controller/wiring
3. Inspect Tires for Damage and Wear
5. Inspect Hitch Components
6. Torque Wheel Lug Nuts
7. Lubricate Locks
8. Lubricate Coupler Latch and Socket
9. Lubricate Hinges
10. Inspect and Clean Vents/Fans
11. Vacuum Screens/ Wash Windows
12. Sanitize Water Tanks
13. Clean Drapes and Interior Fabrics
14. Clean Battery Cables and Terminals, Check Fluids
15. Test Electrical System
16. Test Furnace/ Replace Filters
17. Test and Clean Air Conditioner/ Replace Filters
18. Replace Broken Light Bulbs
19. Replace Smoke Alarm/ Carbon Monoxide Detector Batteries
20. Inspect/ Test Electronics
21. Inspect Suspension
22. Check All Seams and Openings, Reseal as Needed
23. Check Water System Componenets/ Clean Water Heater
24. Inspect/Fill Propane Tanks
25. Inspect/Clean Major Appliances

Source

1) What do the value guides say this RV is worth under normal circumstances? NADA and Kelly blue book) This will be the upper limit of what you could be expected to pay for the RV at auction.
2) Does the RV come with any kind of manufacture’s warranty? If you find a newer model at auction, chances are that it does. As RV companies become more competitive, they offer their RVs with better and longer warranties.
3) Avoid off brands as they may be harder to service and repair. An RV that has a national network of authorized dealers may be easier to service or repair. Also avoid ‘orphaned’, where the parent company is no longer in business.
4) Make sure you buy an RV at Auction that has an acceptable floor plan. You may thing that that your can save a bundle by buying an unusual or outdated floor plan, but the truth is that you will have a harder time selling in later when you are ready to upgrade to a larger model. The most common mistake people make when buying an RV is to buy one that is to small. Within 2-3 years they are selling their RV in order to buy a bigger one.
5) Are their any repairs that I will have to make to the motor home, fifth wheel, or travel trailer after I buy it? Always thoroughly inspect the motorhome or have it inspect by and RV professional. Deduct the cost of repairs plus a 10 to 15% contingency from the maximum price you would otherwise by willing to pay for the trailer or RV at auction.
6) Don’t overbid. Know the most you can bid before the auction starts. Be prepared to walk away from the RV is the bid price exceeds the value you think it is worth. Don’t become emotionally attached.

Source

As most of my shrewd business associates would tell you, “you make your money when you buy and not when you sell.” If you can find buy repo campers for 50 to 80% below retail, there is no reason why you can’t make a nice profit regardless of how the economy is doing. Buying an RV Camper at auction allows you to pay less for it. The purpose of this article is to show you how to get the best deals.

Most camper and RV Repo auctions occur on a semi-repetitive cycle. The key is to find out where and how often. The fastest way to find out is to ask local RV camper dealers who buy RVs at auction where these auctions take place. If you want to get a get deal, but don’t want to do any of the work, you might be able to ask a dealer to find a specific type of RV camper for a small finder’s fee.

For the most part repo RV campers are in good condition when compared to auto or home repos. There are some things to avoid. For instance you should avoid campers that have been lived in for long periods of time or have strong cigarette or pet orders. Many newer campers may have an active manufactures warranties. Since most of repo RVs are sold in as is condition it is important to find about the warranties.

You should also find out if the repo is being sold at a live or a silent auction. Although both types of auctions are great, live auction prices fluctuate more than silent auctions. When less people are present, (such as during off season) you can usually find the best deals. Hope these tips on RV camper auction buying has been helpful.

Source

Check & clean it

Give it a thorough check, both inside and out.

Give the roof a close inspection, especially if it’s spent the winter months braving the elements, clear any leaves and make sure there are no leaks or weak spots. It’s better to spot them now rather than in the middle of an April shower or a summer thunderstorm.

Check all the seals around the windows and doors, if any of them are looking a bit worse for wear, replace the sealant; remember to remove any old sealant before applying a new coat.

Roll the awning out, again check for any leaks, mold, mildew etc.

Check all the safety equipment. Test the smoke alarms, ensure the tags on any fire extinguishers are still in tact, make sure the first aid kit is up to any emergency and fully replenished.

Once you’re sure everything inside is in top shape, give the whole thing a deep clean. Any dirt and grime that’s built up under the RV needs to be cleaned; a high pressured hose should loosen any stubborn mud and dirt. It’s hard to spot any potential holes, leaks or problems if your entire vehicle is caked in mud. Once the outside is spotless, move inside and remove any unnecessary accumulations from the past year, although not a potential hazard, any excess weight is going to add to your weight and fuel consumption.

Once it’s looking as shiny and clean as a show room model, open all the doors and windows; let the whole thing air, especially if you’ve been using any potent chemicals inside.

Check the tires

Your tires work a lot harder than any car tire, they may not do as many miles, but they have a lot of weight to move around so they should be checked regularly. Your owner manual will advise what your tire pressure should be. Remember, over inflated tires are not going to grip the road as well and under inflated tires are going to consume more fuel. If your RV has been stood still all winter, it’s very important you check them thoroughly for cracks. Make sure they’re clean and have plenty of thread left; any spare tires should not be exempt from this inspection. If you’re in any doubt, replace them. We have some beautiful and remote countryside but it’s not so enjoyable if you have to deal with a blowout.

Wipers & windscreen

Just like the tires, these are simple things to check and can save a lot of inconvenience if something goes wrong with them later on. Any chips on a windscreen need to be fixed ASAP, most insurance companies can fix this without damaging your premium, they wont replace the whole RV windscreen for free, especially if you ignored that tiny chip. Again, April showers and summer thunder storms are not the ideal time to find out your motorhome windscreen wipers don’t actually wipe the windscreen anymore. If they’ve not been used for a while, like the tires, check the rubber isn’t cracked and that they clear the windscreen. Any reputable RV dealer will be able to recommend a service centre which specialises in RV’s who can fix and windscreen problems.

Under the bonnet

It’s always best to get your RV serviced at a reputable RV service shop, if this isn’t feasible give the basics a good check the same way you would with a car.

When oil sits for too long, it can separate which causes condensation, condensation in your engine means water touching metal which can cause rust. Drain any old oil out and replace it with fresh oil.

Take a wire brush and give the battery a good clean, baking soda mixed with the water can help negate any irritable affects of the acid, if the battery is too corroded, your engine will have a hard time starting. If your battery requires it, top it up with some distilled water; tap water can have too many minerals.

Paper work

Lastly, before you head off to enjoy the sunshine, give your insurance and breakdown policy a quick once over, if any of your circumstances have changed you may need to amend your policy, have you moved house since you took the cover out? Is your breakdown still valid?

Source

1) Freedom from the grid and campsites.

You don’t want to run the electric components in your RV for too long with the engine off, or you risk running your battery dry. The sites have outlets you can jack into to keep things running, but why be dependent on the sites? Implementing solar panels for your RV means you’ll be able to generate electricity for your RV’s appliances anywhere the sun shines, so you can pull over any time you want and not have to worry about a thing.

2) Grid power isn’t free. Solar is.

When you pull into your spot at the RV-park and jack in your camper, you don’t think they’re letting you use that power out of the goodness of their hearts do you? That power is factored into the cost of your site. Solar power will allow you to book unpowered sites, saving you money.

3) You’re helping the earth.

When you jack in and draw power from the grid, you’re drawing power that is generated through dirty, non-renewable sources. Leaving your engine running while your stopped to avoid draining your battery is even worse! Using solar to power your electrical appliances will allow you to do your part in cutting down on emissions and the use of dirty means of power production.

It isn’t hard, or expensive, to get yourself set up with a portable solar panel that can be used for your RV. There are good resources out there that will show you exactly how to construct and install your solar unit yourself, saving you heaps of money by avoiding pre-packaged systems.

Source

1. Not As Expensive As You Think

Most systems can be had for less $800 and there are some systems that are as little as $200. They are widely available at camping stores and websites, where you can find some of the best deals. And when you factor in the money you will save on fuel for your generator, the panels will usually pay for themselves in less than a couple years. Plus, the prices on solar panels have been falling dramatically lately. Many panels have fallen by 20%, and the trend should continue. And, hey, money is green right?

2. Easy To Install

Since solar generates DC power, and most RV’s use DC power, these two are a match made in heaven. Even for rigs that use AC power, they have a battery or batteries that must be fed DC power. So installing the RV kit is often as easy as mounting the panel in a safe and stable place on the roof, and then running wire to the battery box. Most systems include a charge controller that prevents the cell from overcharging the battery bank. It’s also a cinch to expand the system later by simply adding another panel. Most charge controllers included in the kits can take an additional 1 or 2 solar cells.

3. Stay Out Farther, Longer

When you get an RV Solar Panel installed, you’ll quickly realize that it extends your range for travel. You can go farther and stay out longer. Used to reserving fuel for the backup generator? Well now you can probably keep that for the vehicle and let the panels keep the batteries charged. And now you can use the stereo, microwave and TV for longer at night and not feel guilty, since the sun will just recharge the batteries for free in the morning!

4. Clean and Quiet

If you’re tired of the noisy, messy backup generator, a solar kit can make you pretty much forget about all that. PV panels have no moving parts, require virtually no maintenance, make no noise, don’t need fuel other than ample sunshine, and are hassle free. Now you can get out into the woods and actually enjoy the silence of the wilderness. What a concept right?

5. That Green Feeling

It can’t be understated that you will feel a sense of satisfaction by helping the environment, even if its a small contribution. After all isn’t RV-ing about getting away from civilization and appreciating mother nature? And wouldn’t it be great to be both enjoying mother nature and helping it out a little by burning less carbon? Now that’s a good feeling.

For more information on RV Solar Panels, visit our website.

Repossessions

Repossessed RV’s are sold for dimes on the dollar. The finance companies do not want to pay for storage and many are simply hoping to recoup some of their investment. While some are damaged, many are in great condition, as many people lose their RV’s within just a few months after purchase.

Seizures and Surplus

The federal, state, and local government agencies all seize property for a variety of reasons. Some are for criminal activity, while others are for back taxes. After a specified period of time, these items, including RV’s are sold at auction to the highest bidder. Many will also sell repossessed RV’s, which is where the dealers often find stock.

Many of the same agencies also sell their surplus at auction, as well. FEMA, for example, is currently selling 10s of thousands of campers and trailers they previously stocked for hurricane relief. Some of RV’s maybe in salvage condition, but many others have years of life left in them. The key is knowing where to find the auctions.

Buying from the Government

It’s not as difficult as you might think to purchase a used fifth wheel RV at one of these auctions. You simply place your bid up to what you are willing to pay. Many of the RV’s start out for as little as $100. If your bid is the highest, you win, just like in any other auction. It’s up to you to get the RV home.

There are websites that offer listings of all the government auctions across the country. You can search by location, date, or by the items listed for sale. It’s a great way to see what is available. Some of the sites will even send you updates as new auctions are listed. If you are ready to purchase a used fifth wheel RV, a government auction should be your first destination.

You can save yourself time and literally thousands of dollars by looking over a review of sites that auction used RVs for sale and by using our online buying guide (no need to sign up) to learn how to buy used RVs.

You’ll find reviews of auction sites, FREE tips on great new features to look for, and how to get expert RV inspections, even across the country at http://BuyingUsedRVsforSale.com